Visiting a Fairytale Realm of H.C. Andersen's Homeland in Scandinavia

In the mirror, I can see myself in oversized shimmering pantaloons, perceptible just for my eyes. Children play in a water feature acting as sea nymphs, meanwhile adjacent rests a chatting legume in a exhibition box, beside a tall pile of bedding. It represents the domain of the beloved author (1805-1875), a leading 1800s most beloved storytellers. I’m in Odense, located on Funen in the southern region of this Nordic country, to discover the writer's timeless impact in his birthplace 150 years after his death, and to discover a handful of fairytales of my own.

The Exhibition: H.C. Andersen's House

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the city’s museum celebrating the writer, including his original residence. A museum representative notes that in past designs of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. Andersen's biography was explored, but The Little Mermaid were missing. For guests who come to Odense looking for fairytale wonder, it was a little lacking.

The renovation of Odense city centre, diverting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to rethink how the local celebrity could be honored. A major architecture competition awarded the architects from Japan the Kengo Kuma team the contract, with the museum's fresh perspective at the core of the layout. The remarkable wooden museum with interwoven spiral spaces launched to great fanfare in 2021. “We have attempted to create a space where we move beyond simply describing the writer, but we communicate similarly to the storyteller: with humour, irony and outlook,” notes the curator. The outdoor spaces follow this philosophy: “This is a landscape for wanderers and for colossal creatures, it's created to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he notes, a goal achieved by thoughtful gardening, manipulating elevation, size and numerous twisting trails in a deceptively small space.

The Writer's Legacy

He authored two and a half personal accounts and frequently provided conflicting accounts. HC Andersens Hus takes this approach to heart; typically the views of his acquaintances or fragments of written messages are displayed to politely doubt the his narrative of events. “The writer is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” notes the expert. The effect is a engaging whirlwind tour of Andersen’s life and creations, thought processes and favorite narratives. This is thought-provoking and playful, for adults and youngsters, with a extra basement make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

In the real world, the compact town of the municipality is charming, with stone-paved roads and traditional Danish homes colored in cheerful shades. The author's presence is ubiquitous: the street signals feature the author with his signature formal headwear, metal shoe prints offer a no-cost Andersen walking tour, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Each summer this focus peaks with the yearly Andersen celebration, which marks the writer's impact through creativity, movement, stage shows and musical performances.

This year, the week-long celebration had numerous performances, many were free. During my time in the city, I meet colorful performers on stilts, fantastical beings and an author double telling stories. I experience contemporary performances and see an remarkable late-night performance featuring acrobatic dancers descending from the city building and suspended from a mechanical arm. Still to come in the coming months are talks, creative sessions for all ages and, broadening the oral history beyond Andersen, the city’s yearly Magic Days festival.

Every excellent magical places need a fortress, and this region boasts 123 castles and stately homes across the island

Cycling and Exploration

Similar to much of the country, bicycles are the best way to navigate in the city and a “bike path” curves through the urban core. Departing from Hotel Odeon, I pedal to the free harbour-side swimming pool, then into the countryside for a route around Stige Island, a small island joined by a bridge to the primary land. Town dwellers relax with food here in the evening, or appreciate a quiet hour angling, water sports or bathing.

Returning to the city, I eat at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the culinary offerings is inspired by author-inspired concepts and narratives. The poem the national ode is featured at the restaurant, and proprietor Nils Palmqvist shares excerpts, rendered in English, as he serves every dish. Such encounters frequent in my time in Odense, the fynbo enjoy storytelling and it feels as though storytelling is constantly available here.

Castle Explorations

All good fairytale destinations need a castle, and the island boasts 123 castles and estates throughout the region. Taking day trips from town, I tour Egeskov Castle, the region's most intact historic fortress. Although large sections are available for tours, this historic site is also the private residence of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his spouse, the royal resident. I ponder if she can feel a pea through a mound of {mattresses